March 15, 2010 | Hong Kong

Weather: Few clouds, 22 °C

Issue #826: Farewell Wing Lee Street
Hiking Book

Tapeo

The place: Tapeo

  • 15-19 Hollywood Rd., Central
  • Phone: 3171-1989
  • Daily noon-3pm, 5pm-late

For those who can’t stand loud restaurants or the smell of food in their clothes, stay away from Tapeo. It’s a bustling and friendly place and we were easily seduced by it into a jovial Iberian mode—who cares that the food takes a while when the atmosphere’s great? And when the dishes arrived, most didn’t disappoint. Our least favorite, the red snapper, might have been inoffensive if it had been properly scaled. We enjoyed the ham croquetas, which were crispy on the outside and oozingly creamy on the inside. The best was the quail, whose gamey flavor was perfectly complemented by the sweet apple puree and almost bitter salsa verde. The one quibble we had was over the chunky bits of salt used as garnish, which may be fashionable but end up making some bites unexpectedly harsh. If only they seasoned their food the old-fashioned way, there’d be nothing to stop this restaurant from being one of our favorites.