Perhaps this was supposed to be stereotypical French: the sullen stare of the counterman (the only other person in the place during our whole visit) as we entered did not bode well for our after-work intentions of a light bite in cozy surroundings, but we pressed on. The place is well located in the heart of SoHo and offers a wide range of European treats such as meats and hard-to-find cheeses, but it might be best to grab-and-go. You can design your own sandwich to a degree, so we opted for the set, with a house salad that wound up small and rather pedestrian, choice of meat and cheese fillings and tea or coffee for $78. Parma ham, eggplant, peppers, emmenthal cheese or salami and brie cheese are just some of the options that can be stuffed into baguettes, which the server assured us came "almost every day." While the cheese and ham were full-bodied and hearty, instead of the generous butter slathered on the bread, which was nicely dusted with flour, some French mustard would have added a little zing. There's just one house wine available by the glass ($60, $280 for a bottle), an Australian shiraz that married well with the brie.