March 15, 2010 | Hong Kong

Weather: Few clouds, 24 °C

Issue #826: Farewell Wing Lee Street
Hiking Book

Gourmet Burger Union

The place: Gourmet Burger Union

  • 45-47 Cochrane St., Central
  • Phone: 2581-0521
  • Sun-Thu noon-midnight, Fri-Sat noon-2am

GBU tries to separate itself from other luxe burger places by offering a build-your-own-burger option in addition to their 14 signature varieties. The burgers themselves aren’t bad, though there were some minor kinks. The Double Truffle—a beef burger with truffle cream and gruyere—might have been good, but all we could taste were the overly sugary caramelized onions. The bigger problem is the incongruity between what one would expect at a “gourmet” place and what we got. First, the open kitchen makes the place and the customers reek of beef fat; as soon as we left, all we could think of was taking a shower. Second, the self-service format ensures that your entire meal will be punctuated by the staff yelling out customers’ names. Shrilly. Finally, do not order the side salad. For $35, all you get is browning lettuce with diced tomatoes that have been soaked in a vinegar solution. Possibly the only gourmet thing about GBU is this: since the buns are fluffy to the point of being insubstantial, this might be the only burger joint that doesn’t leave you grotesquely satiated. Good for all those burger-lovers with dainty appetites, we suppose.