March 16, 2010 | Hong Kong

Weather: Broken clouds, 19 °C

Issue #826: Farewell Wing Lee Street
Hiking Book

Duetto

The place: Duetto

  • 2/F, Sun Hung Kai Centre, 30 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai
  • Phone: 2598-1222
  • Daily noon-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm

You’ve probably already heard about the bizarre concept behind Duetto. The restaurant aims to bring the best of Italian and Indian dining together under one roof. Many diners will likely be put off by the very idea before they’ve set foot in the place. We certainly had our doubts, and we can’t say they were entirely put to rest by our visit. To be fair, the atmosphere is nice enough; the interior is split into two spacious rooms with stylish oak wood décor, joined by a large terrace that overlooks the harbor. But once we sat down and opened the menu, the identity crisis at the heart of the place became all too jarring. Lists of dishes from the two different traditions sit side by side, with the occasional crossover dish such as the half-chicken-tikka-half-seafood pizza. We ordered the seabass roll and the chicken tikka, along with some missi roti. To judge from the two main courses, their Indian dishes are stronger; the seabass had a strange sourness to it which we can only hope wasn’t deliberate. At the end of the day, the “fusion” at work in this restaurant just shouldn’t have been attempted in the first place. We understand that the idea came from two previous restaurants, Viceroy and Milano, but some marriages just aren’t meant to happen.