Dec 01, 2015
Steak. Frites. Repeat.
Let’s get one thing clear: we loathe single-item restaurants. They’re lazy, they’re irritating, and they should be consigned to New York City. Unless, of course, they happen to serve steak frites and only steak frites. In which case: bienvenu, mon ami.
On the menu at La Vache: a crunchy green salad with walnuts and a light, tart dressing, an appetizer which really does prepare the appetite. One large rib-eye steak, or “entrecôte” cut. All the fries you can eat. $258. We asked for steaks that were medium and medium-rare, respectively. The staff blissfully ignored us and brought them all out perfectly cooked instead, set on a tray over a candle flame. And warm dinner plates? Big bonus.
The house sauce was a rich, meaty Béarnaise, perfect for dipping. Piping hot fries—crispy slivers of gold, and not a soggy strand in sight—were periodically revealed from the kitchen on silver trays, and piled high on our plates. It’s not haute cuisine; it’s steak. It’s fries. It’s delicious. The house red is quaffable and very bad value by the glass, but good value by the bottle. Maybe try the Henri Bardouin pastis—it’s so much more subtle than your standard Pernod, and much easier to sip with a meal.
If you can, save room for the desserts: think tartes tatin or croquembouches, although they don’t come included for $258. So yes, single-item restaurants may be unconscionable: but good, affordable steak like this can soothe even the most troubled conscience.