March 16, 2010 | Hong Kong

Weather: Broken clouds, 19 °C

Issue #826: Farewell Wing Lee Street
Hiking Book

Tianjin Time Travel

Tianjin Time Travel

June 12th, 2009

Running out of places to see in China? Just outside Beijing, Winnie Yeung rediscovers the old colonial outpost of Tianjin.

With its new fancy restaurants and hip hotels that keep cropping up, Beijing today offers visitors more of a hip city break than an insight into old China. So next time you’re up, why not take a quick 30-minute train trip down to the nearby city of Tianjin? Caught between old and new, the former concession city allows you to enjoy rustic local cuisine amid rich European architecture. Here are five reasons to take a trip down next time you’re in the capital.

1. The Train
Tianjin is more accessible than ever before, thanks to these super-fast trains that were introduced by the Chinese government to speed up modernization outside the cities. Commonly known as CRH trains, these locomotives are designed and assembled in China and can reach speeds of up to 350 kilometers per hour. The new service to the city was introduced last August, just in time for the Beijing Olympics, and slashed the traveling time between Tianjian and Beijing from 70 minutes to just 30. Trains depart from the brand new, UFO-shaped Beijing South Station, and are clean, spacious and welcoming. Fares start at $59.

 


2. China House
Believe it or not, China House is actually made of china: 10 tons of broken bowls, plates and vases to be exact. It’s the brainchild of restaurateur and antique collector Zhang Lianzhi. Once a derelict French mansion, Zhang spent four years covering it with 400 million porcelain fragments, all configured into a mosaic pattern. The entire project reportedly cost $500 million, and has led to the mainland media dubbing Zhang the Antoni Gaudi of China. Today, China House is open to the public, and also houses Zhang’s extensive antiques collection. A must-see for any visitor to Tianjin.
72 Chifeng Dao, Tianjin, (86-22) 2312-8887.

 


3. Amazing Concession Architecture
If you’re a history buff, you might already know that Tianjin was conceded to the British following the Opium War. Its geographical location by the Hai River made it a useful trading route. But the city was also conceded to many different countries—including Belgium and Japan and Germany—between 1860 and 1945, evidence of which is most apparent in the city’s architecture. Take a walk down the main street Jiefang Bei Lu, where the majority of these buildings are. It’s a pleasant 30-minute walk, lined with European-style parks and mansions, and all of which are expertly preserved—not only the exterior but the interior too, from the wooden staircases and chandeliers, right down to the dark, handsome decorations that were popular in that era.

 


4. Colonial Throwbacks
One road down Jiefang Bei Lu is the Astor Hotel. The British built this understated residence in 1863, and the interior has a very strong English classic style to it. These days, hotel staff would probably suggest you book a room in the new wing nearby, but we recommend that you check in a room in the old wing for a true old world experience. Drink in the dark wood décor, the wooden floor and staircase, and the chandeliers hanging from the ceiling, and don’t forget to take in the amazing retro ballroom complete with a glass-dome ceiling, reminiscent of the legendary luxury hotels in London. The slightly worn-out feel of the rooms just adds to the charm. If you check in on Friday, be sure to check out their old-school live jazz show in the evening. Room rates start at $450.
33 Taier Zhuang Lu, Tianjin, 22-2331-1688.

 


5. Hot Buns
Ah, those succulent Tianjin buns. If you’re familiar with northern Chinese cuisine you have probably heard of Goubuli, a restaurant famous for its traditional Tianjin stuffed buns. The buns themselves are made with steamed, spices and gravy, and according to legend, its was a royal delicacy during the Qing dynasty after it was introduced to Empress Dowager Ci Xi. Today the restaurant is something of an establishment. It brews its own beer, and locals and tourists alike simply can’t get enough of those buns. If you simply can’t bear to part with the delectable pastries, you can buy a kit to take home.
77 Shandong Lu, Tianjin, (86-22) 2730-2540.




Getting There
The best way to get to Tianjin is to fly to Beijing, then take a train. Dragonair flies to Beijing every day. Rates start from $3,010. Book at www.dragonair.com.

Stay There
Hyatt Regency Tianjin
The Hyatt Regency sits by the Hai River, with all 353 rooms offering an amazing view of the city. Its location on Jiefang Bei Lu allows tourists to appreciate concession-era buildings a stone’s throw away. It’s also a five-minute taxi ride from the train station and close to banks, government departments and museums.

Expect old-school luxury hospitality and refinement at the Hyatt’s Chat Club Bar on the ground level. Decked out in a rich but understated décor (think big black leather couches, wooden walls and copper hanging lights), it boasts some of the smoothest cocktails you’ll find in Northern China.

219 Jiefang Bei Lu, Tianjin, (86-22) 2330-1234, tianjin.regency.hyatt.com. Rates start from $520.