Forget Bangkok. Visit this hidden gem in Thailand instead, says Saransri Prawatpattanakul.

A three-hour drive from Chiang Mai, through 1,864 mountainous turns, is Pai. A small town in the northern province of Mae Hong Son that lies along the Pai River and sits near the Myanmar border, it used to be a mysterious land that only the truly dedicated would make their way to. The town even gained the nickname “Utopai” for its serenity, beautiful scenery, fresh air and the generous hospitality of its inhabitants. In recent years, it’s become something of a travel hotspot, as it is a quick yet peaceful getaway from the bigger Thai cities. Many visit for the waterfalls and hot springs just outside of town while some find it an ideal base when visiting hill tribes like the Karen, Hmong, Lisu and Lahu. Almost all guesthouses and hotels offer guided trekking tours, but for a reputable travel agent, go to Duang Trekking (at Duang Guesthouse across from the bus station; 5369-9101). It provides two- to three-day trips up the mountain for around $400.

Though some are concerned that the increase in traffic to the area may affect its sense of isolation and tranquility, the tourism boom has made Pai more accessible and tourist friendly. And despite the changes, Pai’s original charm is still there. People are still as friendly and sincere as ever., and everywhere you go, you can easily be drawn into a conversation with strangers. Only rarely does a traveler leave Pai without making some new friends.

Pai is otherwise very quiet during the day and most tourists venture out of the town to visit the surrounding area. Rent a motorbike or get a driver to take you around (read Essentials box for more details). A good first stop is the Wat Nam Hu temple. The holy site is famous for its Buddha statue, which has a hollow head filled with holy water. Then visit the waterfalls further west; vehicles are barred beyond a certain point so you will need to walk to find these secluded but gorgeous cascades. Pai is also surrounded by hot springs, most of which are located on resort property. We recommend Thapai Spa Camping (5321-8583), which has bathing areas and pools with water piped in straight from the springs. Rooms are just $300 a night and feature an outdoor bath, also filled with spring water that you can enjoy privately. To visit a public spring, ask your driver to take you to Baan Mae Yen. The water there is believed to contain minerals that are good for your health and skin. The peak time is around 4pm, when the weather is cooler. If you have time, ask your hotel or guesthouse about a tour to a cave called Tham Lod, which is a good 55km, or about 90-minute drive, from town. Visit before sunset (3pm-6pm) and you will witness the magnificent scene of thousands of birds flying home to the cave for the night.

Essentials
Country code: 66
Time zone difference: -1 hour
Currency: HK$1 = 4.25 Thai Baht

Where to Stay
For a truly peaceful Pai experience, we recommend the riverside cottages. It’s quieter, with beautiful scenery in the misty mornings—if a bit cold in the winter. Baan Pai Riverside (190 Moo 1, Maehe, 5369-8152) has rooms facing the river for just $120 a room.

Meanwhile, the relatively upscale Rim Pai Cottage (99/1 Moo 3, Viangtai, 5369-9133, www.rimpaicottage.com) is a nice Northern Thai-styled resort with full amenities. Prices range from $70 to $950.

Getting There
There is no direct flight from Hong Kong to Pai and most travelers fly there from Chiang Mai. Orient Thai Airlines flies to Chiang Mai daily with a stop at Bangkok. Fares start at $2,200. Reservations: 2366-6869.

From there you can take a flight to Pai by SGA Airlines (return fare $800, 2641-4190, www.sga.co.th). Or you can take a bus ($19, four hours) or van ($35, three hours) from the Arcade Bus Station in Chiang Mai.

Getting Around
If you want to go sightseeing further afield, rent a bicycle or motorbike. Good View (Chaisongkram Rd., 08-5866-1713) is a trustworthy shop with good hospitality and sincere advice. $28 a day for a motorbike and $7 for a bike.