Though it has the unenviable reputation as stopover instead of destination, Conor Purcell finds that Qatar has many delights of its own.

Some believe the name Qatar derives from the Arabic word quatara, which means “to exude.” For visitors to this tiny Gulf state, that will not be difficult to believe; for Qatar is a country that exudes many things: warmth, beauty, and above all, tranquility—something that is increasingly hard to find elsewhere in the region. Despite the country’s small size, it has gained a reputation in recent years as a center of diplomacy, sports and communications, and with its capital Doha being tipped as the “new Dubai” many predict Qatar to be the “next big thing” in the Gulf, which is all the more reason to visit now while it retains its low-key charm.

The country’s size is a bonus for visitors on a short trip—it’s possible to reach anywhere in less than two hours and with excellent roads and non-existent traffic, most journeys should take well under half that. There is, therefore, no reason not to make your base Doha, the economic and cultural heart of the country. A smaller, mellower version of Dubai, the city is dominated by a U-shaped Bay and a recently restored city center. The only signs of development are the newly built West Bay towers that hug the coastline, but the rest of Doha is resolutely low-rise and all the better for it. For many visitors, however, their first port of call in Qatar will be an area of immense natural beauty less than an hour from the capital.

Desert Crossing
Head south toward the Saudi border and you will come across one of the most spectacular sand formations in the region—the undulating sand dunes of the Inland Sea. The Inland Sea, a mammoth body of water that separates Qatar and Saudi Arabia, is flanked by huge, sheer white dunes that drop right to the water’s edge. At certain times of day, you can hear an eerie hum as the sand shifts toward the water. The sea itself is beautiful—crystal-clear and cool—and is the perfect place to swim, fish or just have a barbecue beside while Saudi Arabia looms in the distance. All the major hotels offer desert safaris and even if you’ve been on one in Dubai, it’s well worth the trip.

Souk Out
Should you prefer to do your exploring on two feet, head toward the center of Doha and the recently restored Waqif Souk. With the government removing all metal and neon and replacing it with brushed concrete and wood, the market is one of the most beautiful in the Middle East. Bargain for everything from antique shotguns to dates and wander around the ancient cobblestone streets.

One of the highlights of the Souk is the Waqif Art Center, a collection of galleries, book, and art and design shops in a beautifully traditional Qatari town house. Doha’s art scene is thriving and it is more than possible to spend an hour or three strolling around the Center’s airy courtyards.

Another must for art lovers is the Museum of Islamic Art. Set to open later this year, the I.M. Pei–designed structure makes a stunning addition to the Corniche and will house the largest collection of Islamic art in the world.

If all that culture makes you hungry, head to the northern edge of the Souk where a variety of restaurants and coffee shops jostle for business. Every conceivable regional cuisine is present: from Iraqi sabich to Moroccan couscous and Qatari machbous. The sheer amount of choice means you will always get a table, although the outdoor ones go quickly, particularly on Friday evenings. After your meal, head to one of the second-floor sheesha cafés and watch the sun set over Doha—a sight that will make you fall in love with the Gulf all over again.

The Essentials

Stay
Doha is not blessed with as many five-star hotels as Dubai, but the Sharq Village & Spa is as opulent as any other place in the Gulf. Set over 14 courtyard beits, the complex marries traditional Arabic design with modern amenities, not to mention an utterly relaxing Six Senses Spa. Average rates at $5,000. PO Box 26662 , Doha, Qatar, 974-425-6666, ritzcarlton.com.

Fly
Qatar Airways flies directly to Doha. Fares start at $7,187. Reservations at 2868-9833 and www.qatarairways.com.