Sure, Hong Kong loves to talk about its new national geopark out in Sai Kung, but Langkawi is still the big boy rock park of Asia, writes Michael Franco.


Jungle boys and their Janes are bound to feel at home in this tropical Eden located just up the western Malaysian coast. Bookended by Phuket to the north and Penang to the south, the island is distinctly different from both. The focus here is decidedly on all things natural, and for having taken such good care of their earthly treasures, the people of Langkawi were rewarded when the island was granted UNESCO geopark status in June of 2007. Beautiful beaches, mysterious mangroves, gushing waterfalls and monkey-filled forests await the explorations of anyone willing to leave the party scene so prevalent on lots of local islands behind to experience a different kind of wildlife.

Rock the Casbah
With so much of the island undeveloped, you can think of the place as your own private nature reserve. To get a good overview of your new wild kingdom, take a ride on the Langkawi Cable Car (Oriental Village, Burau Bay), a swooping ride that’ll let you take in views of islands, mountains, jungle and that dazzling blue sea all at once. When you’re ready to come down to earth, consider hiring a guide for some jungle trekking. Check with Irshad (012 584 6184), Bidin (012 476 2055) or Dev (012 489 2392). Alternatively, phone up the Datai (60 4 959 2500) or The Four Seasons (60 4 950 8888) hotels and inquire about their guided nature programs.

Along the way you’ll see lots of the rascally macaques, but try to keep your eyes out for the more shy dusky leaf monkeys that’ll melt your heart with their innocent looking faces—complete with two white circles around each eye. Also watch the sky for a variety of powerful birds including the brahmini kite after which the island is named (“lang” means eagle and “kawi” means rock) and enjoy the kaleidoscopic effects of peering up through the upper boughs of the towering 100-year-old-plus meranti trees.

One of the reasons Langkawi received geopark status is because it is home to the oldest mountain range in Southeast Asia. But another reason is its extensive mangrove system. To spend an afternoon among these “walking trees,” hire a driver (or rent a car as it’s a really easy driving island and takes only about 90 minutes to circle the whole thing) and go to the Kilim Karst Geoforest Park in the northeast. You can take a trip along the substantial river that includes a cave exploration in addition to a “wild eagle feeding” where the boat captain tosses chicken skin into the water and beautiful birds of prey swoop down to pick up their prizes.

The Dish
The top restaurant on the island (and maybe even in all of northern Malaysia) would have to be Nam at the Bon Ton Hotel (see The Digs). The outdoor setting on the edge of a rice paddie is divine. The menu features super-fresh creations that let your palate wander the planet. Get started with the great pita bread and accompanying selection of Middle Eastern dips then, if you’re a meat-eater, check out the lamb with roasted vegetable, chick peas, mashed pumpkin and mint salsa. If you’re a veggie-lover try the vegetable platter with (ready for this?): Lemon rice, eggplant with basil, sweet and sour capsicum, guava salad, roast vegetables, buttered spinach, rocket tomato pomegranate salad and pappadams—all drizzled with a coconut and lemon sauce.

Another restaurant certainly worth visiting (if you can avoid going back to Nam for a second—or third—visit) would be the Gulai House (book through The Datai; see The Digs), situated in the jungle just off the beach between The Datai and The Andaman restaurants. Here you dine in the woods by lantern light in an authentic Malaysian royal home. Ask to be shown to the table on the left where you can dine while seated on the floor. The menu here fuses Malay and Indian specialties, so you’ll find rendang and otak sharing the menu with aloo gobi masala and chicken tandoori. Everything is well-prepared and the service is charming, so—order away!

The Digs

The Datai and The Andaman
(www.ghmhotels.com). These sister properties are the grand old dames of lodging on the island. Situated in the northwestern part of the island, both of these hotels—and only these hotels—have access to the stunning Datai beach, a beautiful half-moon of sugary sand hemmed in by dramatic rocky outcroppings on either end. The Datai is built into the side of the mountain fronting the beach. The rooms are set at the top along with one of the pretty pools while a path leads down, down, down through the forest, past the spa and over a stream to the lower complex that holds another pool and a restaurant. The Datai has a more refined, grown-up air to it versus the neighboring Andaman which seems a bit more built for families as evidenced by the pool which is a stunner, but has a water slide in the middle for the kiddies. Both offer astoundingly good service, luxurious rooms and amenities and the chance to enjoy the best man-made pleasures amid Mother Nature’s masterpiece that is the rainforest. Closing your windows and doors at night is highly recommended. The monkeys WILL come in, open your minibar and get up to the business for which they’re famous! Datai rates from $628; Andaman from $406.

The Bon Ton and Temple
Tree Hotels ( www.bontonresort.com.my). You’ve never seen a pair of hotels like this before. The two properties neighbor one another along the edge of bird-filled wetlands just at the top of Pantai Cenang (don’t worry, peace abounds here). Both properties have been developed not only as a sanctuary for people, but as a no-kill haven for dogs and cats as well, in keeping with owner Narelle McMurtrie’s passion for our four-legged friends. And while you can visit with the furry critters if you want to while you’re here, they’re definitely in the background and no problem to avoid if you’re not inclined to elicit purrs and wagging tails. What you can do here though is luxuriate in the amazing lodgings. The Bon Ton features eight antique kampung houses imported from the state of Kedah that are kitted out with all mod cons—including AC and flat screen TVs. Temple Tree continues the tradition of making old new again by craftily carving out 14 luxury suites from five imported 70-110-year-old villas from around Malaysia, including a stunner of a black and white. Love abounds! Rates from $200 including in-room breakfast treats.

Getting There
Malaysia Airlines connects to Langkawi through Kuala Lumpur for approximately $3,000.