March 12, 2010 | Hong Kong

Weather: Broken clouds, 18 °C

Issue #826: Farewell Wing Lee Street
Hiking Book

The Dim Sum of it All

The Dim Sum of it All

August 28th, 2009

From fusion to swanky to down and dirty, Dorothy So takes stock of the best dim sum in town.

Sharing is caring, and this rings especially true when it comes to delectable dim sum dishes. We explored Hong Kong’s diverse yum cha scene, and whether you’re a fan of har gao and siu mao done the no-fuss traditional way or you’re looking for something slightly more eclectic, we’ve found a bamboo steamer for everyone.

New Kids on the Block
If you’re looking for Tim Ho Wan dim sum restaurant (2-8 Kwong Wah St., Mong Kok. 2332- 2896), just head over to Kwong Wah Street and look for the place with the giant line of people waiting outside. Opened by three-Michelin-starred Lung King Heen’s former dim sum chef, Pui Gor, it’s not hard to see why this few-months-old restaurant has been generating so much buzz in the dining circuit. Must-try items include the baked barbecue pork buns and steamed shrimp rice rolls, both of which will leave your stomach and your wallet happy.

Another new addition to the dim sum world is Tsim Sha Tsui’s Happiness Dim Sum restaurant (Block E, G/F, Rose Mansion, 1 Prat Ave., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2311-4430) which does yum cha fare in a modern, café-like surrounding. The steamed rice rolls and the seafood beancurd sheet rolls are popular choices, all the more so because of their extremely reasonable prices. Happiness also serves some special items, like the deep-fried durian spring roll for slightly more adventurous dim sum goers. But the best thing about the place is that it’s open until 3am, so you can get your helping of steamed dumplings and other delicious dim sum dishes until the wee hours of the morning.

Fusion
Self-proclaimed Demon Chef Alvin Leung made a name for himself in the dining world with his bold, experimental dishes at BO Innovation (Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2850-8371). If you’re not quite ready to splurge on the restaurant’s dinner menus just yet, drop by for their $198 set lunch, which includes a range of Leung’s signature dishes. You’ll also get to sample BO Innovation’s completely unique dim sum items with the set lunch, such as the “har gao” black truffle XO and their famous wagyu cheeks “xiao long bao” with avruga caviar.

Another spot for fusion dim sum is Guangzhou Garden (Shop 35, 3/F, Langham Place, Mong Kok, 3542-5768). The restaurant uses traditional Chinese cooking methods but incorporates new, innovative ideas in terms of ingredients and presentation. Dishes like the pan-fried shrimp dumplings and mango spring rolls are beautiful and delicious. And if you’re up for it, Guangzhou Garden does an extra-large har gao, which arrives in its very own bamboo steamer.

Vegetarian
Vegetarians can head over to Pure Veggie House (3/F, Coda Plaza, 5 Garden Rd., Central, 2525-0552) for their dim sum fix. This popular veggie restaurant does a wide range of meatless small plates during lunch, such as the mushroom xiao long bao and vegan-friendly egg tarts. Mong Kok’s M Garden (6/F, Shop D, Grand Tower, 639 Nathan Rd., 2787-3128) is another great dim sum spot for vegetarians. This cute, meat-free eatery serves a healthier alternative to the MSG-laden yum cha choices elsewhere. Munch away on their flaky turnip pastry puff or try their delicious sweet treats like the mango pudding or almond sweet soup.

Luxury 
Luk Yu Tea House (24 Stanley St., Central, 2523-5464) is a wonderful mix of Art Deco design and Cantonese cuisine. A charming nostalgic elegance pervades this three-storey teahouse, with its stained-glass windows and old silver trays. The sticky rice in lotus leaf is a favorite but a visit to Luk Yu demands that you indulge in the more decadent dishes like the hefty crab roe soup dumplings.

OVOlogue (66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-6088)—which took over Wan Chai’s old Wo Cheong pawn shop—is another stunning spot for a luxurious yum cha experience. Carefully crafted dim sum dishes are served during weekends and public holidays with a premium brunch menu offered from 11:30am–2:30pm, followed by an afternoon tea, which runs until 4:30pm. The two menus are priced at $288 and $168 per person respectively and feature beautiful dishes like phoenix dumplings with shrimp, vegetarian shark’s fin and dried scallop, and milk tart with bird’s nest.

Traditional
The big daddy of Hong Kong’s yum cha places, Lin Heung Tea House (160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556) has been dishing up bamboo steamers of Chinese dim sum for over 70 years now. But age hasn’t slowed this place down at all. In fact, the restaurant just recently opened a second branch in Sheung Wan (2&3/F, 46-50 Des Voeux Rd. West, Sheung Wan, 2156-9328). The long lines outside and the noisy crowds are just the tip of the iceberg—the chaos really begins when you start ordering your food. Fend off other diners as you clamber your way past the obstacle course of spittoons and crammed tables towards the old-school dim sum carts. While it sounds like a lot of work for a bite to eat, Lin Heung’s wonderfully made dim sum dishes—especially their fluffy and fragrant ma lai gou spongecake—is well worth the extra effort.

Dim Sum Bar and Lounge
Dine on dim sum the stylish way in some of the city’s sleekest clubs and bars. Dragon-i (Podium, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222) made the dim sum clubbing concept popular with their all you can eat dim sum lunch ($148 per person). The lunch is offered Monday through Saturday and features innovative dishes like the deep-fried shrimp and mango roll with almond. Also try Dragon-i’s recommended “kick ass” dishes, which include steamed shrimp dumplings with bamboo shoot and deep-fried crab claw with shrimp paste.

Lotus (37 Pottinger St., Central, 2543-6290) is another restaurant-lounge doing the dim sum deal with their $128 weekend yum cha brunch. You can have unlimited orders on over 40 dishes, including your typical har gao, siu mai dim sum fare, along with some Thai small bites like pork hock and corn cakes. And on top of this delicious deal, Lotus’ house cocktails all go for $68 during weekend brunch hours.